Amouage continues to push the boundaries of perfumery with the latest addition to its innovative
Essences Collection: Oud Zuhal .
At the House of Amouage, the process of creativity is as important as its end result – it is only through a fearless refinement of the process that true artistry is achieved. Nowhere is this more evident than in the acclaimed Essences Collection, which, by virtue of its ingenious double-infusion process, marks a milestone in the development of perfume composition. Now, a new feat of innovation joins the collection in the form of the astronomically-inspired Oud Zuhal – a limited-edition composition, released only in the GCC region to coincide with the Ramadan period.
“With the first Essences,” says Renaud Salmon, Chief Creative Officer at the esteemed Omani High Perfumery House, “we used sandalwood as the material for infusing the perfume concentrate. But during the development process, I experimented with other ingredients, including frankincense tears and cardamom pods.” The effects of these alternative ‘infusion substances’ were certainly thought-provoking, but there was one ingredient which led to especially promising results.
“When I tried an infusion with oud chips, the impact on the concentrates was remarkable. It gave them a depth and timelessness that was quite distinct from the attributes of the sandalwood – a sense of the past being heard within the perfume itself.” This notion of ageless authority would be the starting point for Oud Zuhal .
Oud Zuhal – a gift from the stars
From the earliest moments of its opening, Oud Zuhal is focused firmly on its central material: the effect of the oud chips used in the infusion is unmistakable. All of the characteristics of the highest quality of agarwood come to the fore immediately – the animalic boldness, the mysterious woodiness, the dry, herbal inflections. However, after the initial assertion of oud, it also becomes apparent that the scent is far more than a presentation of a single ingredient.
Black Pepper and Pink Pepper bring a feeling of lift to the composition, lending it a marked verticality. The cooling, subtly citrusy personality of Cardamom acts as a striking contrast with the Oud, causing it to appear more clearly defined. As the scent progresses, the earthiness of Patchouli emphasises the Oud’s more authoritative features, while a sophisticated Amber note conveys a sense of timelessness. Finally, the use of Oud Assam complements the Indonesian Oud chips and achieves a rounded, full-bodied effect: the former is complex and multi-dimensional, whereas the latter is warmer and more balanced. The two grant Oud Zuhal lofty, grandiose proportions and elevate it to a suitably celestial level.
Structured as a monumental core surrounded by more delicate elements, Oud Zuhal is an emotionally charged expression of the power of sagacious fortitude.
